Free Knit Pattern for Winter Work Socks
How to Knit Toe-up Socks With Short-Row Heels & Toes, in the Round
Dec 4, 2008
This winter sock pattern has been road-tested by a veteran professional bicycle messenger through several Canadian winters; he swears they are more effective in keeping his feet warm and dry than any of the high-tech synthetic sports socks he has tried.
You will need:
- Two skeins of Lamb's Pride worsted (one for each sock). It’s 85% wool and 15% mohair, and felts very well.
- 4 or 5 double-pointed needles (2.75 mm = US 2 = UK/Can 12)
- Stitch markers (you can use loops of contrasting-coloured yarn)
- Stitch holder (optional)
- Tapestry needle to weave in ends
You will also need to know the measurement of the feet you’re knitting for, from back of heel to tip of longest toe. Add half an inch. (Add three-quarters of an inch if you think the socks will be machine-washed often.)
Gauge: 20 stitches x 30 rows = 4" square (approx.)
Abbreviations:
- K = Knit
- P = Purl
- SL = Slip
- PSSO = Pass slipped stitch over
Measurement are given for: Women’s Medium (Men’s Medium)
Instructions:
Toe-cap
Cast on 24 (28) stitches.
- SL1, place marker, K23 (27)
- SL1, place marker, P22 (26) to marker. Turn work.
- Temporarily remove marker. With working yarn in front, SL1. Replace marker, K21 (25) to marker. Turn work.
- Temporarily remove marker. With working yarn in back, SL1. Replace marker, P20 (24) to marker
Continue in this manner until there are 8 stitches between markers, ending on a purl row
- Turn (but do not slip a stitch). K8, remove marker, SL1 knitwise, K into base of next stitch, PSSO, replace marker
- Turn (but do not slip a stitch). P9, remove marker, SL1 purlwise, P into base of next stitch, PSSO, replace marker
Continue in this manner until all the stitches have been worked. (Note: for the last stitch at each end of the needle, you will have to make a stitch outside the row being worked. This will become clear when you get to it.)
The toe-cap is now complete, and should look like a small hat.
Foot
You should still have 24 (28) stitches on the needle along one side. Pick up 24 (28) stitches evenly along the other half.
- K22 (26) of the original 24 (28) stitches, P1, K1
- K2, P1. Then (K3, P1) five (six) times, K1
Repeat the last two rows to knit the foot of the sock. The sole of the foot is 20 (24) stitches wide, and worked in stockinette. The top of the foot is 28 (32) stitches wide, and worked in a P1, K3 ribbing. For convenience, you may wish to redistribute the wool so most of the needles start with a purl stitch.
Measuring the Foot
Now, refer to the foot measurement you took before you started (perhaps 11”). Measure the length of your finished toe-cap, from base (original cast-on row) to top (perhaps 3"). Double this measurement (6”). Subtract the doubled toe-cap measurement from the length you want your sock to be (11” minus 6” = 5"). With these numbers, the sock should measure 5" between toe-cap and heel.
Stop knitting when you reach this length, after a set of the 28 (32) stitches that form the top of the foot. Move these 28 (32) stitches to a stitch holder (or poke the needle ends securely into the knitting so the stitches can’t fall off the needle).
Heel
With the remaining 20 (24) stitches, repeat exactly the same process as you used to make the toe-cap. This time, the same shape will become the heel.
- With right side facing, SL1, place marker, K19 (23). Turn work.
- SL1, place marker, P18 (22) to marker. Turn work.
- Temporarily remove marker. With working yarn in front, SL1. Replace marker, K17 (21) to marker. Turn work.
- Temporarily remove marker. With working yarn in back, SL1. Replace marker, P16 (20) to marker. Turn work.
Continue in this manner until there are 8 stitches between markers, ending on a purl row
- Turn (but do not slip a stitch). K8, remove marker, SL1 knitwise, K into base of next stitch, PSSO, replace marker
- Turn (but do not slip a stitch). P9, remove marker, SL1 purlwise, P into base of next stitch, PSSO, replace marker
Continue in this manner until all 20 (24) stitches have been worked. The heel is now complete.
Ankle
With right side facing, pick up the 28 (32) stitches that have been held in reserve, continuing in the P1, K3 ribbing. When you reach the heel, keep working in the pattern. You should now be working 48 (56) stitches in the round, or 12 (14) sets of P1, K3 in each round.
From this point on, you can use your own taste and judgement about measurements.
Continue working in the pattern until you have knit 4” to 5" beyond the heel.
Cuff
Switch to K2, P2 ribbing and work at least another 3” (or to the end of the skein, if you prefer). Make sure to leave yourself enough wool to cast off very loosely in the pattern. (If you cast off too tightly the first time, unravel your last couple of rows and try again. A too-tight cast-off can make these luxurious socks unwearable.)
Trim tail to about 5” and weave in.
About Felting
These socks can be machine washed in cold water with other clothes. They will felt beautifully, becoming thicker and softer. They will shrink considerably in length, but not much in width. Even if they are worn frequently, they should stand up to at least three winters’ wear without darning; quite possibly much longer.
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