Knitted Rib, More Than Cuffs and Neckbands
Ribbing Can be Used to Help Fit and Add Design Details. Free Pattern
Sep 23, 2009
Any knitter who has progressed beyond scarves will have knitted ribbing at some point. It’s an essential part of the knitter’s toolkit which prevents sleeves and waistbands sagging, and stops hats from being too loose.
What is Knitted Ribbing?
At its simplest, ribbing is a uniform alternation of knit and purl stitches. The most commonly used is Knit one, Purl one rib (also known as single rib). The alternation of the stitches draws the fabric in and gives it elasticity. This is why it is so useful on knitted clothing. Ribs hold the work straight and help them to fit the wearer.
Rib Variations
There are many ways to vary ribbing. The most obvious is to increase the number of stitches (knit two, purl two).
However, it is also possible to add decorative details (such as twisting the two knit stitches, to give a cable effect), or to make the rib uneven, such as knit three, purl one.
The trick is to keep the rib lines straight to get the full effect and elasticity.
Ribs As Pattern
As well as the stretch effect of ribbing, it can also be used decoratively. This can be seen in the hat pattern, below, which uses a “disappearing rib” pattern and can be worn with inside out, for a different look.
Socks also benefit from additional ribbing. A knit four, purl one rib, for example, can be used to create a classic sock with excellent fit.
There is no need for knitters to only think of ribbing for the edges of work. As can be seen, it can become an integral part of the design.
Disappearing Rib Hat.
4.5mm needles
The sample was made using Noro Kureyon yarn (approximately 25g)
Loosely (thumb method) cast on 80 stitches and work in the round throughout.
Work 12 rows K1, P1 rib
Work 18 rows K3, P1 rib
Work 14 rows K7, P1 rib.
Row 45: * K5, K2tog, P1, rep from * to end (70 sts).
Row 46: K6, *P1, K13; rep from * to last 8 sts, P1, K7
Row 47: As row 46
Row 48: *K2tog, K4, P1, K2tog, K5; rep from * to end (60 sts).
Row 49: K5, *P1, K11; rep from * to last 7 sts, P1, K6
Row 50: As row 49
Row 51: *K3, K2tog, *P1, K3, K2tog, K4, K2tog; rep to last 7 sts, P1, K3, K2tog, K1 (50 sts)
Row 52: K4, *P1, K9; rep from * to last 6 sts, P1, K5
Row 53: K2 tog, K2, *P1, K2tog, K3, K2tog, K2; rep from * to last 6 sts, P1, K2tog, K3 (38 sts)
Row 54: K3, *P1, K7; rep from * to last 4 sts, K4
Row 55: K1, K2tog; *P1, K1, K2tog, K2, K2 tog; rep from * to last 5 sts, P1, K2tog, K2 (30 sts)
Row 56: K2, *P1, K5; rep from * to last 4 sts, P1, K3
Row 57: K2 tog, *P1, K2tog, K1, K2 tog, rep to last 4 sts, P1, K2tog, K1 (20 sts)
Row 58: K1, *P1, K3; rep from * to last 3 sts, P1, K2
Row 59: K1, *P1, K1, K2tog, rep from * to last 2 sts, K2tog (15 sts)
Row 60: K1, *P1, K2, rep from * to last 2 sts, P1, K1
Row 61: K1, *K2 tog, rep from * to end (8 sts)
Row 62: *K2 tog, rep from * to end (4 sts).
Cut the yarn, and thread it through the four loops on the needles. Pull the yarn tight and fasten off.
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