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Determining knitting gauge is the first thing any knitter should do before beginning a new project.
Lots of knitters hate knitting tension squares. They want to jump in and start knitting that new project straight away and enjoy the lovely new yarn they've bought just for the purpose (or perhaps pulled from the yarn stash!) Why Knitting a Gauge Swatch is EssentialJumping in and getting started straight away with the knitting is all very well if the project is a scarf or something else where known gauge is not that essential. However, if it is necessary to know the finished size of an item, whether it be a sweater or a bag made up of different pieces which must fit together, then knitting a gauge swatch is a must. No two knitters handle yarn and needles in exactly the same way, and this can result in considerable variances in stitch and row gauge. Almost all knitting yarns sold today come with a suggested gauge to aim for and needle size to use. To take one example, 4 ply yarns usually come with the suggestion to knit at a gauge of 28 stitches and 36 rows per 10 cm square, using size 3.25 mm knitting needles. If however the 4 ply yarn is being used to knit socks the needle size will usually be reduced to 2.5 mm. In this case there will of course be a change in stitch and row gauge and it will be essential to knit a swatch, using circular knit techniques, because it is usual for the knitter to want the sock to fit somebody. Substituting yarn is another minefield. Quite often the yarn for a particular pattern will not be available and the knitter will want to use something else. Once again it will be helpful to know that the yarn being substituted for that in the pattern will work to the same stitch gauge and whether adjustments may need to be made to the needle size to ensure that the knitting tension will match. It may be necessary to switch from circular knitting to flat knitting and vice versa. Some knitters do work to a different tension gauge when working flat to the one they will use when working circular knitting. The reason for this is that the purl row is often looser than the knit row due to the techniques used in making a purl stitch. Again the only way of knowing whether this will happen in any given case is to work a gauge swatch. How to Knit a Flat Knitted Tension SwatchThe best size for any tension gauge swatch is usually about five to six inches across. This will give a good area to measure and make the piece easier to handle if the knitter plans to block it. If the swatch is to be in stocking stitch, it's important to remember that stocking stitch always curls, so it's a good idea to surround it with an edging of garter stitch. This will help it to lay flat and again make it easier to handle. To surround a stocking stitch swatch with garter stitch, start by working four rows of garter stitch (every row knit). Then work in stocking stitch (one row knit, one row purl), but remember to knit the first four and last four stitches of every purl row. Finally, when the swatch is big enough to measure easily, work four rows garter stitch and cast off. How to Knit a Circular Knitted Tension SwatchTo knit a circular knitted tension square it will be necessary to cast on twice the number of stitches as for the flat swatch (for example, 60 or 80 stitches). Then work around 40-50 rows. Because the size of the swatch is doubled, some knitters like to cast on the same number of stitches as in flat knitting (30-40) and work flat, but knitting every row without turning the work. The knitting will of course be done on a circular needle. When the end of each row is reached, the yarn can be carried across the back of the piece so that when the knitting is finished there will be a series of lengths of yarn on the purl side. The disadvantage of this method is that it may be necessary to work a slightly bigger piece than for normal flat knitting gauge swatches, because the stitches at the edge will not be sealed by edge stitches as they would be if the yarn were not carried across the back and each row knitted. It will also still be necessary to work the garter stitch edge as described above, so that the swatch does not curl up too much. Blocking the Knitted Tension SwatchIt is a good idea to wash and block the knitted swatch in the same way as the finished garment will be washed. This will allow the stitches to smooth out and will also help the knitter to know if the yarn is likely to shrink during wearing or distort badly during repeated washings. If this does happen it will be possible to plan in advance so that the knitting can be adjusted to suit the tension gauge after washing. It's particularly important to wash wool and cotton yarns before measuring gauge, because these are the major culprits for shrinkage after washing. Other yarns may also change gauge after washing, and the final effect of the yarn on the stitches may also change; sometimes a fluffy yarn may bulk up and hide decorative lacework. It is a good idea therefore to treat the finished swatch in the same way as the finished garment so that any pitfalls can be known before precious time and money are spent on yarn and knitting. Hopefully once the above suggestions have been put into practice, the knitter will start to enjoy swatching and regard it as an important part of the creative process in making any knitted item.
The copyright of the article Knitting a Tension Gauge Swatch in Knitting Patterns & Techniques is owned by Gillian Buchanan. Permission to republish Knitting a Tension Gauge Swatch in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.
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